Altered Jeans

An expert tailor in SF and the waist adjustment that changed my life. I mean, my Levi's.

First, thank you for all of the love and support you’ve shown me and my new JEANS collection. I can’t believe how many of you reached out and shopped, such a thrill! I’m packing orders as quickly as I can – I still do a lot of the wrapping myself, and love it. Leave a comment if you have a question about the fits on any of the five pieces. I’m here to help.

Now, on to this week’s headline…

I recently spent 48 hours in San Francisco with two very important things to do – have dinner with my friend Amanda who was in from London for work, and visit The Future Past, a vintage store and denim atelier owned by Lindsey Hansen. (A reader recommended it in a comment on Barrel Jeans – thank you, JG!) Lindsey, an apparel industry veteran who sells wonderful heirloom pieces, also mends and alters things by hand with great respect for the fabrics, and a commitment to keeping good clothes in circulation. What Lindsey adds to each garment is undoubtedly valuable. I was super impressed with her vintage selection and the thoughtful repairs she’d made to many of the jeans, in particular.

Designer and expert denim tailor Lindsey Hansen owns The Future Past in San Francisco’s Richmond District.

I tried on many pairs during my visit, but the ones that hit were 1990 Levi’s Made in Japan 504s. Everything was right about them except for the waist, which was high, unnaturally cinched at the band, and thus tight but also pouchy around my abdomen/crotch. It felt odd for a men’s style – plus, I’m into mid-rise jeans at the moment – so I asked Lindsey if she could adjust the waist to make it sit lower on my hips and, therefore, flatter down the fly. She said, “Yes.”

Left: The jean selection at The Future Past. Right: My 504s in the fitting room before Lindsey’s alterations. The waist was too tight and high on me, making them hike up and also bulge. Without the men’s-y dropped crotch, they look very average, too.

How did she do it?

“First, I dismantled the waistband by removing it from the body of the jeans and seam ripped the side seams open. Next, I patterned out two triangular inserts cut in vintage denim to match the shade of the jeans. Each insert is sewn into the side seams; expanding the waist. Then I divided the waistband by cutting it in half at the center back. To add to the waistband I found a matching shade of denim from another pair of vintage jeans (from our denim stash used for “parts”) and cut out a portion of that waist band to be added to your pair. The insert for the waistband needed an additional 2” to account for seam allowance. I then sewed the insert to the waist band and pressed it into shape. Finally, I pinned and sewed the waistband back to the body of the jeans, sewed the belt loops back into place, and voila! The jeans are now suited to your shape.”

Casual, right? ha. It completely changed the vibe of the jean, turning them back into cool boyfriends, dropped crotch and all. I’m not alone in my belief that, when shopping for vintage, a good wash is the first/most important thing to find, and I love the inkiness of these; the grungy, green cast is special. Do I mind the inserts? They remind me of the time I spent in San Francisco eating pasta at Piccino with a friend, and talking to Lindsey about small business ambitions and the inexplicable thing in us that makes denim feel so soothing. I don’t mind the inserts one bit.

Lindsey sewed notches into both of the upper side seams to accommodate the new, 2”-bigger waistband. Now the crotch drops and the front lays flat. Notice how low the back pockets are, too – I love it. Reformation tee.

P.S. A quick refresh on Levi’s care tags for those who may be new here. The care tag is typically sewn at the waistband or inner left side seam. It may list the fabric content, style number, production date, and factory code, also known as the button post number. I learned from Patrick Watkins of Altelier Vintage, an excellent seller based in Redondo Beach, CA, that there were no care tags before 1971 and that all jeans manufactured before 1980 were Made in USA, so some don’t say it. There is zero consistency across the brand’s care tags from decade to decade, but the tags can be insightful sometimes. Case in point:

The care tag on my 504s lists the fabric content, the factory code (J22), the style number (504), and the date: 10 90 (October, 1990). Factory code J22 is also stamped on the back of the top button.

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I’m working on a Guide to Great Denim Tailors with the legendary Meg at Jean Genie Vintage. Raise your hand if you know or are an expert in denim alterations and repairs by putting it in the comments. Submissions will be vetted and the complete list will be made available to all subscribers. Thank you for reading and participating in this newsletter with me. Your support, as always, is everything.

Jane

Lindsey’s collection of leftover coin pockets at The Future Past.

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More to read…

The Only Jane’s Jeans: My denim capsule is here.

Vintage Jeans, Part II: What to ask and where to start when buying online.

How to Distress Jeans for a Real Lived-In Look (Vogue.com).