Georgia O'Keeffe Jeans
The artist wore these.
On every mood board I’ve made in recent years there are photographs of Georgia O’Keeffe. Though other female artists may be more famous for styling and influencing how we wear jeans (Jane Birkin, for example), to me Georgia is the ultimate icon. After all, she was the first.
According to the Levi’s Historian Tracey Panek, “Georgia wore several different styles of Levi’s jeans.” The selvedge pair in Maria Chabot’s photo of her on the motorcycle with Maurice Grosser (above) were “Lady Levi’s Lot 701 jeans or possibly a men’s 501,” Tracey told me, pointing to the brand’s visible back patch and signature red Tab on the right rear pocket. 701s were once the women’s version of 501s; the year was 1944. Later on, in the 60s, Georgia wore California Ranch Pants, which were included in the Brooklyn Museum’s Georgia O’Keeffe: Living Modern exhibit in 2017 (below), Panek confirmed:
Pearl snaps, keystone belt loops, and a single side zipper gave the California Ranch Pants a polished, trouser-like vibe. Levi’s sent me photos (below) of a deadstock pair from their Archives. It’s cool to see how Georgia’s compare after years of wear. The softness is what strikes and moves me most. For any denimhead, it is a gift.
I tried a lot of jeans this week that, frankly, didn’t fit or feel right. If you’re interested in revisiting some of the ones I’ve worn before, visit my Jean Bar. (I did just find a Celine denim cap in pristine condition on The RealReal, though. Also this RRL & Co chore coat is tempting.)
Jean of the Week: Joyce Lee
When Joyce Lee posted the photo below on Instagram, just weeks after leaving her position as Head of Design for Madewell, something clicked. People noticed (myself included), because, for the first time in nearly 20 years, since she started working on the design teams at big NYC fashion companies (Marc Jacobs was before Madewell), Instagram got to see Joyce dressing just for Joyce. Yes, her jeans – B Sides’s Slim Lassos and a Khaite shirt jacket – shared interesting proportions and complementary-but-askew shades of blue; her black Alaïa ballets were a nice surprise; her beanie-meets-girl attitude was expertly executed. “But it wasn’t just an outfit. It reflected the moment and this next chapter in my life,” she told me over video chat. “I was shopping for workout clothes. I was getting dressed for myself.”
Milestones generally call for new jeans. But the Slim Lasso is one that Joyce has worn for years. “I’m 5’4” and the length is always perfect,” she said. Honestly, new or old, it’s superfun to see what Joyce is into right now. Her Gift Guides, which she’s been posting on Instagram, are a delightful mix of food and fashion stuff: Pasta-shaped candles, edible earrings, Jones Road Miracle Balm, and Emme Parsons boots (the Highlight has it all). Her side-hustle stenciled boat totes are perfect presents (DM her @joycejjoyce_ quickly to inquire).
“How do I want to design my life?” is the question Joyce is currently asking herself, and a good one to think about as we near a New Year. Let her be our inspiration today.
What jeans are you wearing and why do you love them?
I'm wearing the B Sides Slim Lasso jean in the Palmer wash. I absolutely love the way they fit me - they’re relaxed and easy, with a curved shape which feels interesting. The seaming details are beautiful and create the unique shape, and they are the perfect length for me – I’m 5’4” – which is a huge plus.
How are you wearing them these days?
I love them most with a simple tee or a well-loved sweatshirt. Now that it's pretty cold in NYC, they also pair nicely with different coats. They work well with casual jackets, as well as something more polished. They work equally well with both a ballet flat or a pair of sneakers.
Best memory in them?
Spending a really beautiful fall day walking around New York - from a lovely breakfast at a friend’s home, to wandering and exploring shops, galleries, and restaurants through the afternoon, and ending the night at a cocktail party. The jeans made me feel like myself all through the day and I remember so many details of that day… and a lot of it had to do with feeling so happy and effortless all day.
What's your denim philosophy?
Jeans are truly a wardrobe go-to for me - I have different fits, washes, sizes, depending on my mood. They always feel like an authentic part of my style - I love that they are both casual, and can be elevated. I’ve always loved utility and timelessness in pieces I wear. That’s jeans for me.
If you had to wear one pair of jeans that you currently own for the rest of your life, what would they be?
My vintage Levi’s 501s. I’ve had them for years already and they feel molded to my body. The wash is that perfect medium indigo. It may be time to patch up some spots and I’m trying to wear them sparingly.
Joyce Lee is a designer and creative director. She lives in Williamsburg, Brooklyn with her husband and their two kids.
My Ask Me Anything (about denim) link will remain open (and free) for the rest of this year. Last week I replied to readers looking for everything from comfortable date night jeans to non-belly-band maternity styles. If you have a pair you’re into, put it in the Comments please, I love it. Liking, shopping, sharing, or upgrading your subscription are great ways to support the work I do. As always, thank you for reading.
Jane
Highly recommend Jane’s inbox for your Jean Q’s. She’s an expert and I’m so grateful for her suggestions and thorough responses to my denim wants and needs 💜.
Joyce Lee - wow. Love the look and inspired with the question she asks herself “how do I want to design my life”. Jotting that down for my 2024 inspiration and themes