If I am going to wear jean shorts, they are going to be long and tailored, like Bermuda shorts.
That’s about as much as I knew on the subject when I set out to write this post. Actually, I take that back. I also knew that jean shorts are in, that knee-length versions have been trending, and that the long-short is associated with a look called “surfer nephew,” which recently surpassed “coastal grandma” as the summer season’s best beach meme. Being a Southern California native, I got the joke.
Here’s what I’ve since learned: Though Bermuda shorts are beach-by-way-of-island in origin, they are not surf-related (those are board shorts; the two share length and little else). Bermuda shorts are believed to have been designed by British military forces at the turn of the 20th century for the soldiers and Royal Navy personnel stationed in tropical parts of the former British Empire. Other accounts credit a single Bermudian business owner, Nathanial Coxon of the local Coxon’s Tea Room, with inventing the style in 1914 when he shortened his employees’ trousers to help them stay cool. Either way, by the 1950s Bermuda shorts were literally the Talk of the Town.1 Today, real Bermudas are still constructed like a pair of trousers with a proper waistband and belt loops. They are hemmed one to three inches above the knee and typically made of Irish linen or other lightweight fabrics.2 Front pleats are optional.
So, technically, the jean shorts I’m talking about are not Bermudas, but they are long and tailored, and since fashion folk today use the name generously to describe almost any near-knee knicker or brief, I feel the reference is valid. The ones I bought for myself have leg creases in the front and back, fancy. Crisp. They’re from AGoldE. I was so excited to show you…
Until I realized that I had no experience with wearing a pair of shorts like these, and that my usual wear-with-jeans staples – crew neck t-shirts, novelty shoes – look much too casual to wear out feeling like myself.
I quickly thought of
, who just identified “Shorts for Adults” as a summer essential in her newsletter, Uniform. Ali has the clearest, most palette-cleansing personal style – minimal, sophisticated, and borderline monastic in its commitment to aesthetic simplicity and restraint. If tips on how to wear a refined jean short was the ask, Ali would have the answer. I DM’d her (via Instagram; I don’t use DM’s in Substack). A few days later, we were on the phone.“They’re like Bermudas, but wider and almost A-line, with a high waist and dark, rinse wash,” I explained. Ali started by explaining her general approach: “I love a Bermuda short. When I’m styling one, it’s the same outfit idea as putting on a beautiful trouser. And actually, because it’s a short I want it to feel even more clean and polished. For adult women, I think it’s age appropriate to wear it like you would wear a pant, or any other type of tailoring.”
“With a denim short, I would personally look for a wider leg and a really clean wash. Black or cream. Not blue. Wear it with a button down, a belt, and The Row flip-flops. Anytime you are wearing something more playful – like shorts or culottes – monochrome colors will make it feel less casual. Even in a stripe, I’d feel like I was headed to the beach.”
I showed her a photo of my new shorts, which I’d paired with Miu Miu’s chill Riviere cord sandals.3 Did I look too surfer nephew for a women in her forties? “My thought is that a denim short can be quite casual and the sandals – I love them – but they are also quite casual and in touch with the surfer trend, so I think it’s nice to have things that kind of juxtapose that. Like a relaxed button-down. Sleeves rolled. You could add a belt. A bag. A bag can always bring an outfit up a little bit. I would steer clear of raffia or canvas. A leather bag probably feels more like it’s incorporating your own style,” she said. She’s right. “The other thing I was thinking… A great oversized sweater could work. An oat-colored oversized sweater, if you know it’s going to be a bit chilly. To get a little more weight on the top and balance out the wide shape of the short.”
I took Ali’s advice – and her belt – and came out with a look that made what I had monumentally better. Potato, potatoh, Bermuda, Bermadoh… I love these shorts. And now I feel good about wearing them.
Shorts for grown-ups…
Approved by the surfer nephew’s chic bi-coastal aunt.
That’s it for this week. Now go follow Ali, she really is an expert. To those of you who upgraded and shopped the Paid Subscriber Sale last weekend, thank you. I hope you love your new jeans. Denim Forever.
Jane
More fun facts are at Bermuda.com.
Footnote. In last week’s letter I mentioned that I prefer not to wear flip-flops and other t-strap sandals with long, puddly jeans; too sloppy and collegiate. All toe and nothing else. But with shorts – or anything that shows the top of the foot and ankle – a sandal like Miu Miu’s Riviere is nice. Sporty and foot-framing. You can see the whole thing. Bonus points for this particular sandal: The cord is soft and gentle between toes, and the padded back velcro bit doesn’t aggravate anything. It comes in red, tobacco, and black. Free People makes a version that’s $98 (I’d get them in chocolate). These (for just $50) would also do the trick.
Love this round up and so happy Bermudas are back!