Jeans don’t necessarily make great gifts. But jewelry does, and jewelry goes great with jeans.
My favorite at the moment is from Sherman Field 1967, which I love for its chains and hefty cigar ring. Gold. 18K. All made in Los Angeles by designer – and longtime friend – Danielle Sherman. It pairs so beautifully with vintage denim (above). Maybe you recognize the pearl pendant from so many of my letters? Like jeans, I wear it almost every day. A perfect (if pricey) present, I believe.
Which reminds me, all the best jeans from past posts are in my Jean Bar. Pairs like last month’s Tory Burch trousers, which have become a most valuable player in my wardrobe this winter, are there. My favorite white t-shirts are linked, too:
Last week, an email came in through my AMA form from Brittany in Chicago. The subject line: “Not a question – a plug for perfect jeans!” Click, open, quick.
I have a love/hate relationship with Madewell denim. I struggle with the feel of their 99% denim. For some reason that 1% stretch feels really noticeable.
The other day I was in the store and tried on their low-slung straight and they are PERFECTION. 100% cotton, I took my regular 25 and they fit more like a mid-rise. Baggy-meets-straight in a way that feels understated cool vs trendy. They have a slight taper that looks perfect with sneakers. – Brittany, Chicaco
“A few size notes, if helpful,” Brittany added when I asked her to tell me more. “I tried on the 24, 25, and 26. I'm almost always a 25 in Madewell, but in some of their baggy items I’ve sized down. [In the low-slung straight], my true size was just a little baggy while still fitting in my hips and waist. Figure that is the way to go with 100% cotton. Standard length was perfect for my almost 5'7” frame. Slight puddling, but not overboard.”
I had to try them. And? Brittany’s size tips rang true. I took my typical size 25. (If I sized down, I’d loose some of low-slung’s namesake “slung,” I think.)
It’s a good jean. Easy to love, and it comes in three washes. The Olvera has the smallest rip on the right back pocket – are micro-abrasions a thing? (I’m thinking of the tiny tear on the left leg of Nila Lotan’s otherwise pristine Flora jean, too.) Blink and you’d miss it. I’m not bothered.
HOT TIP: While helping a reader find not-too-wide trouser-style jeans last week, I discovered that Mother now makes a version of my favorite High-Waisted Spinner Skimp with welt pockets. It’s called the Prep. I’ve since been recommending it left and right to women who Ask Me Anything About Jeans because it ticks so many boxes:
✔️ Optimum fabric content for people who like stretch (98% cotton; 2% elastane)
✔️ A work-to-dinner-ready attitude
✔️ Zip fly (correct for a trouser style)
✔️ Exceptional fit and unspectacular legs – no pleats, holes, or super-broad hems (currently positioned to make a major comeback, btw) – so, a good Everyday.
Jean of the Week: Madeleine Cohen
Did you know that the average height for women in the U.S. is 5’4”? Madeleine Cohen, who just launched a jean company for women 5’4” and under called Nelle Atelier, knows it and understands the struggle petite women have finding a good fit, personally. “I’m curvy and 5’1” and when I Googled ‘best jeans for short girls’ the brands that came up didn’t get the vibe of my closet," she told me. “I’m thirty years old. I don’t want to be back shopping at Abercrombie.” (Truth: Abercrombie has a broad selection of styles in a multitude of lengths. No offense to Abercrombie.)
But, think about it – hemming disrupts the flow of a good flare if the flare, which spills from the knee, is designed for a person with long legs. Nelle Atelier’s Léa fixes that issue. I tried the Claire, a 501-y fit in a light wash called Sky (I’m exactly 5’4”), and it played nicely with all of my shoes (see the Footnote for more). The line’s third fit is Emily, she’s a straight with stretch. Here, the designer herself on the pair she wears most…
What jeans are you wearing and why do you love them?
I am wearing the Nelle Atelier Léa jean in Onyx. These are officially my favorite jeans - I can dress them up with a belt and heels, or dress them down with a cashmere sweater and chunky boot. They are effortless no matter what I do (or don’t do). I always feel polished when I wear them.
Best memory in them?
Probably when I put them on for the first time – when I got the final sample back from the factory I had this really cool “I DID IT” moment. I love a wide leg or flared jean, two styles that are really hard to find when you’re 5’1” (when you hem a standard-sized flare or wide leg, you end up chopping off the whole flare and ruining the jeans). The Léa hit the floor just right when I wear flats or heels (no awkward hang) and make my legs look really long.
Do's and Don’ts?
Please, Don’t put your jeans in the dryer. Hang Dry and Warm Iron (ironing makes them feel soft when you haven’t dried them).
If you’re short, Do make sure your jeans either hit the ankle or graze the floor. This will make you look longer, I promise.
Do wear cute socks with ankle jeans!!! [Jane: I second this. See the Footnote1 for more.]
A pair that changed your life?
This sounds corny, but it was the lack of jeans that fit me that changed my life. And brought me to creating Nelle Atelier.
What is an Everyday jean to you?
It has to be comfortable. If you are like me and sitting at a desk for most of the day you can’t be wearing anything too tight or too high waisted (I opt for the Emily jean most days). It has a hint of stretch which doesn’t lose its shape. I know the debate on stretch vs. non stretch is very polarizing, but I like both!
Madeleine Cohen lives in Los Angeles and is the founder of Nelle Atelier.
It might seem crazy, but I answer all Ask Me Anythings, personally. Use the link. I encourage you to share your favorites in the Comments, too – this group knows jeans! Liking, shopping, and upgrading your subscription are all great ways to show your support for the work that I do. Thank you for reading, as always, it is everything.
Jane
I’m using today’s Footnote to talk about a few things: 1. How the Nelle Atelier Claire style fits me (very well), 2. How the length of the jean works with all the shoes I’ve been wearing (hits a sneaker standing; shows a sock sitting), 3. How nice socks change everything (and make shorter hems look interesting), and 4. How the combinations of these three things work together (splendidly). You may notice, I wear jeans and a white t-shirt nearly every day. The shoes I’m wearing are – Chloé loafers (a staple), Doc Martens (my first ever); yellow suede Jamie Haller loafers (thank you, Black Friday), and Autry’s Reelwind sneakers (the result of some very persistent Instagram ads). Any of these shoes with a bare ankle and blue jeans would look… boring. Conventional. Add a special sock and they become…more. Right now I buy all my socks from Noodle Stories in Los Angeles. Madeleine, who makes the Nelles, recommends Calzedonia (3 for $15!). Options are plenty and they make great gifts. Short jeans, cool socks, can’t lose.
I feel the writer of this week's question. I love my Levi's ribcage jeans, but.................... with the 99% cotton and 1% stretch, it sometimes feels/looks like I am wearing blue cotton pants! ;)
I am excited to look into the label mentioned as well; 5'4 club member over here. So, thanks for that!
I love my one pair of Madewell jeans and will be going there tomorrow to try-on others!