Some of you – my husband, included – have been asking me to do this for months. I’ll start by saying that I know, as facts, exactly two things about men’s jeans. The first is that there is nothing sexier than a good man in a great pair of jeans. And the second is that the men’s denim world is different from women’s. It’s smaller (roughly 40% of the market), loyal, and way more technical. If you think I get deep and nerdy about 5-pocket constructions, go look at Denimhunters.com (but not until after you read this).
What I like to see in jeans for men are things like Japanese denim, tributes to historical workwear, rigid fabrics, and a decent amount of earned wear-and-tear. I like blue (v black or grey), loose legs, and selvedge seams. I’m not interested in skinny styles, but I don’t mind if you are. The vibe is this:
For this letter, I went shopping for my husband Marc, a film director who favors utilitarian pants, James Perse polos, On Cloud sneakers, and the occasional Bode shirt. I asked stylish friends and men who design clothes for women about the jeans they wear, too. Though my intention was not to write a comprehensive run-through on the trends, inevitably some emerged. Like with women’s, bigger fits are in for men. (I said our worlds are different, not alien.)
Thakoon Panichugal, Founder, EIC and Designer of HommeGirls, told me to look at Carhartt. “Funny, I hadn’t been wearing jeans – I’d been in Carhartt workwear – but I recently bought Carhartt jeans and the fit is really good, loose with a little taper, but baggy,” he DM’d. The photos he sent me match this Slim Fit Heavyweight. “Almost like that 90s style that you’d buy at Walmart. No stretch. Real construction-worker style.”
Carpenter jeans were mentioned by my friend Jonathan Leahy, a music supervisor for film and television who always looks appropriately dad-hip. I combined Thakoon’s brand rec with Jonathan’s tip and found Carhartt’s Work in Progress Single Knee Jean, a great relaxed-utility hybrid that comes in many washes. It, to me, gets workwear and trend right. Roomier legs are happening, guys. GAP’s 90s Loose has been a hot topic in ‘stack Chats among women who buy it two sizes up, yes up, and swear it’s as good as any AGoldE. (I myself have not tried it, but I don’t doubt the Substack community’s enthusiasm or positive experience.) OrSlow’s baggiest 101 style is nearly sold out on Net. Pardon me, Mr. Porter. And wait until you see today’s Jean of the Week (keep reading).
Benjamin Talley Smith is someone who, like last week’s Malin Dyer, designers hire to help them produce exceptional women’s jeans. Khaite, La Ligne, Ulla Johnson, Reformation – Ben’s on it all. He has taste, style, and a career’s worth of denim. “My top three include a rare Helmut Lang replica of [the designer’s] original ‘98 painter’s jean. It’s something we did in L.A. We had to screen-print every pair by hand over a weekend. I like them for their iconic quality, but also because I made them.” If collectors-piece painter’s jeans are now interesting to you, Eric Schrader at Junkyard Jeans has the best.
As for my husband Marc, he tried on a lot, including Visvim’s Social Sculpture 01 jean (which I loved, but he didn’t) and every Todd Snyder style in stock, choosing the rinsed indigo Slim Selvedge, a traditional 12.5oz non-stretch with a mid rise and tapered leg. Which brings me to selvedge. Phew. Is it even a proper story about men’s jeans without talk of selvedge, the holy grail denim of yore defined by that white stripe on the outseam? (I get almost Denimhunters-deep about it here.) Trends will come and go, but selvedge is forever. The Todd Snyder Slim is an excellent fit for Marc (and many people’s partners, I imagine). I approve.
Jean of the Week: Alex Drexler and Somsack Sikhounmuong
Last month Alex Mill, the New York clothing line helmed by Alex Drexler, his dad Mickey, and designer Somsack Sikhounmuong, launched denim – three styles for women (many of which sold through within weeks) and a jean for men called the AM Original. Alex and Somsack are twinning in it below (cute!). But seriously. “A great wash is both an art and science, and getting it right is not an easy task,” Alex told me. “Our team was exacting when it came to the wash.” Also impressive: Alex Mill jeans are made in Los Angeles at a factory that reuses 98% of its waste, and nearly all of the water used in the production process is recycled. Here, we talk more about what makes guys’ jeans great.
What do you value most in a pair of jeans?
Alex: For me, finding a jean starts with the right wash. I like washes that feel lived-in and aged, like a vintage pair of Levi’s 501. I don’t like it when the jean feels too sanded, or has too much whiskering. That doesn’t feel natural.
What’s the most important thing to get right?
Alex: We thought of our job as recreating the aging process so it looks just like the vintage jeans we love – many of the pairs we used as inspiration were from the 70s. We went through dozens of reviews with our studio in LA to get the perfect patina. The tone of that patina is really important – we prefer a brighter, whiter undertone to a warmer cast, but it’s really a balance of both.
What’s the difference between designing jeans for men v women?
Somsack: Fit, quality, and wash will always be top priority for me, whether designing for men or women. If I had to dig a little deeper, I’d say one small difference would be the weight of the denim. We go with a denim that’s a bit heavier for men. I’m a fan of a thicker fabric when it comes to mens jeans.
You’re both cuffing your jeans. Is that how you recommend wearing them?
Somsack: I always love a cuffed jean. It’s a bit old school, which I love.”
Alex Drexler is the founder of Alex Mill, a clothing line he started in New York City in 2012. Somsack Sikhounmuong was a Creative Director at J.Crew and Madewell before joining Alex Mill as Creative Director in 2019.
I’d love your feedback on this letter, especially if you wear any of the styles I’ve included. Leave a comment and I’ll reply. Quick reminder: There are some things on SALE at The Only Jane. The discounts are applied at checkout and they are generous. Thank you for shopping, sharing, liking, commenting, and subscribing. Your support, as always, is everything.
Jane
More to read…
The Expert’s Jeans: When designers want denim, she’s who they call.
Really Expensive Jeans: Are they worth it?
Big Jeans: Giant. Important. Maternity-friendly. (But not all at once.)
My husband has a stack of A.P.C. New Standard selvage jeans which he wears to pieces, been his longtime go to. He does the small hem cuff like in many above photos, looks great with his English loafers.
He always bemoans a pair of white Helmut Lang jeans he had in the 90’s. But my husband is from Germany so I give him a pass, ha!
I too, only like blue jeans on men. My husband has one more of "rinsed black". - I will toss them when he's not looking. TODD SNYDER also has the best chambray shirts for men.