Redline Jeans

Some say selvage, and I like selvedge. Potato, potahto.

First, some new year’s housekeeping: I launched a JOJ subscriber chat last week to test this idea I had for a place where we can give new life to old jeans. Manufacturing jeans puts a lot of stress on the environment, but denim is an incredible, durable fabric that generally ages well. If we, as a community of jean-lovers, can trade and resell pairs with and to each other, imagine the impact, however small, we could make. And, what fun.

Two Citizens of Humanity styles (Marlee and Liya, size 26), a pair of B Sides Brits in black (size 27; $99), and Levi’s 512s (size 25; $183) have been listed, so far. I’m selling a pair of Levi’s selvedge 1-501s that I bought on Etsy for $225. Gorgeous, but not quite right in the crotch on me. Check the chat or reply to this email if you’re interested. They are, at the time of publication, all still available.

The vintage Levi’s 1-501s I listed in the JOJ subscriber chat. I’m selling them for $225. The tag size says 31 but they fit me, your average 25, generously. The button post number is 524. Fun fact: Levi’s 1-501s were special-order 501s made for retailers, prisons, or other industrial working facilities. Email or get the app for more info.

This Substack has a readership that includes some real experts – collectors, designers, and dealers. The chat is there to talk about everything denim, but I love the idea of focusing it on sustainability and using it to shine a spotlight on those in this industry who are helping. Artisans, upcyclers, and slow-fashioners, tell me. Start a Thread. One reader recently asked for tailoring tips (great for refreshing tired fits). I hope you’ll chime in. We have a lot to learn from each other.

Which brings me to the subject of this email and something that deserves a quick 101: Selvedge. When I listed the 1-501s (above), I called them redlines, which refers to the red “stripe” sometimes found on a selvedge seam. OK, so but what is selvedge? I’ll try and make this breezy…¹

Norma Jeane in selvedge jeans. Photograph by Andre de Dienes.

Selvedge jeans are those that utilize the self-edged vertical seam of denim milled, historically, on narrow shuttle looms. Some call it selvedge, others selvage… I follow Levi’s (selvedge), because they’re the kingpin of this category.²

It helps to have a visual. This is an American Draper X3 fly shuttle loom at Levi’s’ legendary Cone / White Oak mill in Greensboro, North Carolina (now closed, rip):

The American Draper x3 fly shuttle looms, here at the legendary Levi’s Cone / White Oak mill, made some of the best selvedge denim in the world.

See the white stripes on the outer edge of the denim being made? That’s the selvedge. It’s designed to keep the fabric from fraying, and some companies – old and new – will include it in the seam that runs up a jean’s legs. It’s a good look with a cuffed hem. Die-hard denimheads tend to love it.

So why are some selvedge jeans, vintage ones specifically, considered more valuable? Because in the 80s, many mills started weaving denim on much wider looms that could yield more jeans per yard and weren’t self-edged (hence the binding, overlock stitch you see on so many inside seams). Selvedge denim took a back seat to bigger, cost-effective manufacturing practices. By default, over time, 501s made of classic redline selvedge became harder to find. They also became more vintage (more vintage? Not a thing. But you get what I’m saying). Older and older. Real, quality stuff that, 40+ years later, looks better than ever.

Weekend Mom. My all-time Levi’s redlines, with socks and Autry Reelwind sneakers.

Right now, I’m into wearing my favorite selvedge redline jeans from Altelier Vintage with a 1” cuff (the red line has nearly faded into oblivion at this point). Just enough to show my stripes (wink, wink). If you’re in the mood for a pair, Altelier’s Patrick Watkins has this 1980 501, size 28, listed on his Etsy shop. WhatGoesAroundNYC.com has a good selection at the moment; these and these caught my eye. And Meg at Jean Genie Vintage has these, size 29, with a dreamy light blue wash. (If it feels like I am always plugging the same vintage dealers, I am. Google can’t be trusted do our online vintage shopping for us. I vet all my sellers, thoroughly.)

Working Mom. Just a wink of side seam on the same vintage 501s. The boots are old Costume National. Here is one option – the snug ankle is key. A sock boot would also work. LastFrame’s Ichimatsu knit tote is my new favorite thing. Feeling undressed without a belt, who am I? (A size 75.)

I hope it’s not too late in the letter to mention that there are companies making great new jeans with selvedge denim. They can be as expensive as vintage, if not more, but the sizing is reliable and the side stripe is very real. Nudie, a Swedish company committed to sustainable production since 2001, does Japanese selvedge for men and women, offering “free repairs forever” at their local shops. Jeans that never, ever get tossed? Something for the chat. I’ll see you there.

Selvedge crusaders, from left: Imogene + Willie Catherine Indigo Rigid 13.5oz nep, Levi’s 90s Selvedge, Nudie Jeans Lofty Lo Snake Eyes selvedge.

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I’ll be back next week with newness. Ask Me Anything (about jeans) is now available for paid subscribers – I’m so happy so many of you have written to me with questions. If you’re not a paid subscriber, you can become one here. Liking ❤️ , shopping, sharing, and commenting are all great ways to support my work. As always, thank you for reading.

Jane

1. Like I said, this is a 101. If you want to go deeper on the storied history of selvedge, read this on Denimhunters.com and this Masterclass on How Selvedge Denim is Made.

2. 501 Fab Facts: The Story of Selvedge.