So You Want to Wear Sneakers with Jeans
I have a trench coat for that.
Hi. How is everyone? I’m still processing the results of the election. To address my grief, disappointment, and worry, I’ve been doing a lot of things including, but not limited to, restorative yoga, screaming along to “Vampire” by Olivia Rodrigo alone in my car while driving down Sunset Blvd., and cooking loads of ravioli for people I love. Although I wouldn’t say these things have made me feel better, they’ve certainly made me feel alive. Years ago, when I was going through a loss, a woman I know looked at me, in tears, and said so plainly: “It’s OK. You are still you.” We are. Still us. I am remembering to be grateful for that.
This post started as a search for great sneakers to go with jeans, and quickly became a two-for-one feature on trainers and trench coats. But not just any trench coats. Patchwork trench coats with Frankenstein’d parts – contrast sleeves, pieced lapels. Has the patchwork trend in denim rubbed off on my outerwear choices? Probably. I picked up not one but two such trenches when I was in London last summer without even realizing it.
While patchwork-ing a pair of jeans will often change the fit (from straight leg to bell bottom, for example), doing it to a coat creates, instead, the appearance of an added layer. Yes, the trickery of a built-in can look lazy – the very definition of inauthentic, made-up style, in fact – but when blocks of color are applied to these trenches the result, I think, is delightful. See what they do to a simple tee-shirt-and-jeans-plus-sneaker situation? Wonders.
Now, the sneakers. I realized while working through this post that I do not like long, puddly, wide-leg jeans with sneakers. With sneakers, I prefer a hem length that shows the shoe, if not the whole ankle with a cute sock, also. I know I’m late to the Citizens Ayla party, but it took the cropped version (which isn’t so cropped on me, actually) to get me on board. NOTE: This version of the Ayla has a raw hem, which I trimmed of all its pesky threads. There’s a 99% chance I’ll take these jeans to the tailor to have them finished since loose ends are not my thing.
Basic rule of proportions: The wider the leg opening, the higher the shoe’s profile can be. To me, a thick-soled sneaker with a slim, straight leg is just a void. I need some awkwardness – a nerdy sock, a tapered leg (more on that below) – when I’m wearing sneakers and jeans. Maybe because its an inherently youthful combination and therefore reminiscent of adolescence? This isn’t therapy, I know, but wearing sneakers with too much seriousness and formality defeats the purpose. That purpose being to feel just a tad more nimble and carefree than we do in all our other adult shoes. Play-based dressing. You heard it here first.
Jumping back to coats: You could, of course, actually layer a lightweight jacket under a trench coat to get that piece-y look. This (above and below) is the very popular Sézane Clyde trench. I had my tailor swap its original plaid lining with a fabric from Liberty, and I am very pleased with how it turned out. Under the Sézane, I’m wearing the Trip, a shawl collar jacket I designed for summer travel that slips easily under most coats, like a sweater. Right now it’s 30% off. Pull the Trip’s collar and cuffs out from under the Clyde – or any trench you may already own – and that desired combo-coat effect is achieved.
The sneakers (above), a collaboration between Adidas and the British menswear designer Craig Green, have that low profile look I like with a very straight-leg jean. These are slightly transparent with stringy laces and a hard, rubber sole. Insert Sambas if you have a pair already. Mission accomplished.
In my search for exciting sneakers – did I mention I pulled 17 pairs for this letter; 8 made the cut – I landed on Flower Mountain, a mix-y and whimsical line of trekking-inspired street shoes made of about a million different colors, prints, and materials (OK, I’m exaggerating). But the selection is big and the collaboration with Barbour is basically happy feet IRL. With so many fantastic options, the choice was hard. Good luck. (And don’t fret, it’s foolproof.)
Last call: Classicists will applaud the inclusion of Nike’s iconic Cortez running shoe – an easy, cushy option for under $100 that comes in many great colors. I’m preferable to green suede paired with Tory’s raw denim trouser, which has maintained its position in my weekly rotation consistently since this post. Curious about the Cortez, there’s more in the Footnote1…
That’s all for today. The Jean Sale continues and – I’m telling you – there won’t be further markdowns, so shop now or forever miss your fit. I’m answering questions about sizing in the comments. As always, thank you for reading, subscribing, and being a part of this conversation with me. Denim forever.
Jane
More good links…
I’m in
’s denim extravaganza. Watch her expert approach to jean styling here.Read What Can Women Do Now? by Xochitl Gonzalez in The Atlantic.
This is my styling experiment for Vogue.com.
Quick history of the Cortez: It was designed by Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman in the late 1960s and made its debut with the signature swoosh in 1972. Initially famous for the ground-breaking cushioning it provided long-distance runners, the Cortez is now a modern legend available in variations of suede and leather, and many cool color combos. I decided on mossy green because I don’t have any mossy green suede sneakers (do you?), and I like how it looks with raw denim. Warning: The baby Cortez’s are ridiculously cute.
Jane, if you take a pair of jeans with a raw hem to the tailor what can they do to it if you don’t have the original hem?
Do you think the "intentionally awkward" look with sneakers and jeans has an age limit? I feel like I'd just look cuckoo, instead of "cute". To drown my sorrows this week, I went through a lot of your newsletters and shopped! Love, love the Lutece bag ~ among other purchases. I think I had a softer landing about the election because I never believed the polls, and always thought he'd win...so I had a long period to slowly grieve. I could go on and on about mistakes made - but I do hope this is a much needed wake up call to the Democratic Party that they need to regain what had always been their base, but has dwindled. I'll stop now. xo