7 Great Jeans
To end the year.
I tried on a lot of jeans in 2023. Most of the best ones have been in this letter, but there are a few that, for good reason (space, availability, thematic flow), had to hold. But they’re such. Great. Jeans! A proper trouser, an Etsy score, a closet staple from GAP… a total of seven styles, strategically paired below with things I wear all the time (my Chloé loafers, a Sunspel tee, this cashmere flannel shirt, and the a festive red-orange sweater). I’m not someone who buys a ton of new clothes. With jeans I love, I don’t have to. Here they are, Happy Holidays.
B Sides: Plein Relaxed Straight in Lt. Vintage
I like this jean for its good-awkward length and the sturdy, flat-felled seams on both the outer and inner legs (jeans typically have felled seams on one side or the other, if they have any at all). Non-stretch, with a high rise and zipper fly, it’s a style I bought when I starting thinking about this letter last spring and, having looked at jeans non-stop for the past six months, l can honestly say I love the Plein even more today (awwww). I’ve recommended it to plenty of friends. It’s time I told you, too.
Soeur: California in Washed Blue
It’s funny this jean is called the California because nothing about it – so properly tailored with pin-striped pocket linings inside, and all – reads California (beach! sun! chill denim!) to me. But as far as trouser styles go, this may be the gold standard (precisely because it has traditional pin-striped pocket linings inside). Size up if you wish to sit down comfortably.
1985 Studio: Levi’s LVC 201XX Buckle Backs (from Etsy)
The care tag on this jean I bought from Etsy’s 1985 Studio – replicas of a Levi’s 201XX style from the late 20s/early 30s – indicates it was made in the U.S.A. in 1994, which, for those who believe vintage is anything 30+ years or older, would make it vintage, like, tomorrow.1
At the time, to verify its authenticity, I sent photos of this jean to my vintage guru Eric Shrader. “Great looking wash,” he texted back. “I don’t think you got hosed on [the price].” I paid $195. Is it vintage? “Not to me,” Eric wrote. Still, I like the color and twisted selvedge seams; I think the mix-y details are interesting. Doesn’t matter what it is or isn’t. Love is love when it comes to jeans, too.
I discovered Studio 1985 while working on my two-part series about how to buy vintage online. This Etsy shop, which is based in Malaysia and does not accept returns, was communicative and confirmed my shipping details directly. My experience shopping with them was a good one, and they have some gems in their inventory, currently – these 1998 Helmut Langs (size 27), these Levi’s LVC replicas of the 1955 501XX (size 29), and these selvedge Denimes (size 30) – that I believe are worth taking a chance on.
CQY: Nirvana in Freedom
CQY (pronounced koi) has been closing shop and liquidating inventory since May, which is the only reason I haven’t given this Los Angeles company more attention in my letter. The Nirvana, which I’m told is limited – there may be 10 left – is excellent and currently $75 (down from $295). Sales are final, so know this: It’s made of Japanese denim with 2% stretch and it fits true to size; it has a button fly, a twisted seam, and some light distressing on the hips and hems. The wash is even better in person. I recommend clicking, quick.
GAP: ‘90s Straight in Black
It would be a miss to end the year without recommending a very good pair of black jeans. What I like about GAP’s ‘90s Straight is its discretion. A high rise, a stovepipe leg, a zipper fly, a pinch of stretch. This is not a jean I would tuck t-shirts into – it hugs too tightly at too many points; in fact, it runs a bit small so size up if you’re debating. I bought a size 25 and did not shorten it, or think twice (it’s priced at under $100). For all those times you’ll soon find yourself saying, “I wish I had a pair of jet-black jeans to wear out celebrating tonight,” buy these.
Nelle Atelier: Emily in Sapphire
Nelle is the new line for petite women 5’4” and under whose founder, Madeleine Cohen, was in the letter a few weeks ago wearing the signature flare. What makes it work: Careful adjustments to the leg measurements so that the knees and wash patterns sit where they should on smaller bodies; shorter inseams, of course. The Emily, a tapered high rise with 2% stretch, has a 25.5” inseam on a size 24. (size down; I take a 24 in Emily and I am typically a size 25.) On me – and I’m on the tallest end of Nelle’s target audience – this jean is squarely cropped, which makes it a great showcase for boots and special socks.
Levi’s: Ribcage Bell in the Medium Wash Medium
I’m not a flare girl, but many of you are and so this is my gift to you. Maybe I owe you an explanation: My aversion has mostly to do with the pressure I feel to wear heeled shoes in order to reach a flare’s full potential. But the rise on this Ribcage is so high (a whopping 12” on a size 25), that even if I cut it at my ankle to accommodate flats (which I did), I still get all that lengthy goodness. (The inseam is now 28”; I’m 5’4”.) A stretch flare with an unfinished hem? On me? If there’s anything I know, it’s to never say never.
p.s. Notice the flat-felled seam on the inside leg of these Levi’s. They’re the only pair in this letter, other than the B Sides, with even a one.
That’s it for straight-up new-jean reviews this year. I have one more letter planned for 2023 and it will be a bit different. Subscribe so you don’t miss it. For now, Asking me Anything (about denim) is free and my Jean Bar is stocked with all of the best pairs from past issues. I wish you Happy Holidays and extra time with the people you love most. As always, thank you for reading.
Jane
In Vintage Jeans: Part I, Levi’s Historian Tracey Panek said: “Personally, I would say that vintage needs to have some aging or sense of time, at least thirty years, but ideally much longer.” Levi’s considers original vintage to be anything from before 1971.
Thank you for sharing Nelle Atelier! I'm 5'4 and often struggle with jeans so I love that they're catering purely for petites.
I managed to snag a pair of the B Sides Plein jeans during Black Friday sales and was kind of nervous because it was final sale but WOW these are, legit, the perfect jean.