Two New Jeans*

* and a Footnote.

I’m excited about this letter. The two pairs of jean-jeans I’m featuring today are a departure for me – as are the heels I’m wearing with them. What can I say? With both of my kids now in school (milestone!), I’m finding a little more energy for all kinds of things (did anyone else flag the very enticing recipe for cold soba in this past Sunday’s New York Times Magazine?) At the bottom of this letter there’s a new section I’m calling Footnote

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, which is exactly what it sounds like – a postscript about the shoe I’ve picked to go with a jean. Such an important relationship, don’t you think?

So, some fall, some footwear, and a chat with Rachel Tabb, the savvy owner of L.A.’s curated, cult-vintage shop RLT. I love online shopping, but sometimes there is nothing like going into a store IRL to try on vintage Levi’s, and Rachel has some of the best.

Quickly, though, last week two companies close to my heart – Levi’s and Clare V – came together to celebrate the launch of designer Clare Vivier’s book, La Vie de Clare V. (Rizzoli). The party was fun. It was fashionable. And it had the best favors: Jean jackets silkscreened with some of Clare’s signature graphics. I got the super relaxed 90s Trucker in a medium wash, size XS (below). Oui, please!

Left: The silkscreen machine at Clare Vivier’s book party. Middle: My Levi’s 90s Trucker getting the royal “Oui” treatment. Right: Slouchy, but not too long. The silkscreening was an event exclusive, but the jacket is available at Levi.com.

For those who may be new here, Welcome. I’m 5’4”, I wear a size 2 in the jumpsuit I design, a size 25 in most contemporary jeans, and I am not a model or representation of all bodies. In vintage Levi’s, I go for a waist size 29 (if that’s confusing, read Vintage Jeans, Part II). There are few things I love more than helping people feel great in new clothes. I’m so glad you’re here.

Lately, I’ve been cinching my jeans by tying the front belt loops together with a ribbon. Maybe it’s time to do a roundup on belts. Levi’s 501 vintage redlines from Shop Altelier. Madewell t-shirt in Lighthouse. Levi’s 90s Trucker.

Nili Lotan: Flora Pleated High-Rise Jeans

I love Nili Lotan jeans. Whenever I see them on people, I envy those people because the truth is no Nili jean has ever fit me properly… until these: Pleat-front trousers cut in fine-washed denim with the slightest stretch (2%) and a yellow top-stitch. They’re so cool I’m willing to overlook the small, seemingly random rips on the left knee (the rips are so minor, I thought they may have been a defect, but no, they’re intentional. Can you find them?). To make the Flora feel less work-y, I hemmed them to accommodate flats.

Before and After. I shortened my Nili Lotan Floras to wear with flat shoes. The hem hits the floor in the back and breaks on the top of the foot without too much puddling. RIGHT: With The Great Harbor shirt and The Only Jane’s signature Anchor Charm attached to the belt loop.

The metal Anchor Charm on the left belt loop is something I designed for my jumpsuits and jackets – a small decoration that’s great for hooking sunglasses and making things feel finished. I like how the Charm sits with the pleats. I also like how the blue of these jeans looks with the blue of The Great’s Harbor Shirt, which I’ve featured here before. Of note: The Great now offers an updated version of this hit shirt in a lighter wash with tobacco-colored buttons. Tempting.

Madewell: The 90s Straight Jean

A foolproof uniform: Straight blue jeans, white tee, navy blazer. I’ve been wearing versions of this look for going on fifteen years (I’ve owned this Junya jacket for that long, at least), and when I find a jean that slips seamlessly into the formula, I’m always thrilled. Madewell’s new 90s Straight is a right-down-the-middle fit with a leg that’s just slack-y enough to accommodate heels and still feel chill. (See the Footnote for more on the mary janes I picked for today.)

Madewell’s 90s Straight jean in the Enmore wash. Junya Watanabe for Commes des Garçons jacket. Gianvito Rossi 85 Mary Janes. I love that they look polished but still slouchy from the back.

The site says these jeans run small, but in my experience Madewell jeans run big – readers will back me up on this – so although Madewell recommends going 1 or 2 sizes up in the 90s Straight, I’d say buy the size you typically wear in other contemporary jeans. I’m wearing my go-to size 25 in the Standard fit. The inseam (30”) did not require shortening. Oh! I should mention these jeans have what are called Magic Pockets – stretch linings added to the front pockets to help hold and smooth things out around the belly. “People swear by them,” I was told. I can’t say I noticed, but I’m so pleased with these jeans, I can’t say I didn’t notice the magic of these pockets, either.

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Jean of the Week: Rachel Tabb

“I’m obsessed with helping people get into the jeans they love,” said Rachel Tabb, who owns RLT, the vintage shop in Los Angeles with a minimalist aesthetic and an exceptional selection of pre-worn, Made in U.S.A. Levi’s. “Clean. No rips. 501s. That’s my girl.” As for why Rachel doesn’t sell her denim selection online: “The sizing is just super challenging,” she told me, and it’s true. “Come into my store. Slip into my DM’s on a good day. I can help you.”

Rachel Tabb opened her store on Beverly Blvd. in Los Angeles in October 2022.

Citing Rose Bowl scores and thrift store cut-offs from Out of the Closet as some of her most memorable pairs, Rachel has long believed in the value of used clothing. “I always wanted to wear the thing that was one of a kind,” she told me. At RLT, this includes plenty of jeans-adjacent essentials – great graphic t-shirts, elegant vintage belts. The better-than-basic tees that Rachel designs herself are coming back soon.

RLT; 7607 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, 90036; www.shoprlt.com. Follow RLT @shop_rlt.

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Don’t forget to scroll for the Footnote. I’d love to hear what you think about it. Leave a comment, I’ll reply. Liking, shopping, sharing, and subscribing are what makes this world go ‘round. Thank you for being a part of it.

Jane

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1. Introducing: Footnote. In which I note what’s on the foot and, more specifically, the relationship between the jean and the shoe. I picked a heel for Madewell’s 90s Straight because the 15” leg opening sits so nicely with a little bit of height – it doesn’t cinch around the ankle, swallow the foot whole (like so many bell bottoms), or break too much in the front (a little give is good; stiff-looking is bad). To me, a blocky heel like this one from Gianvito Rossi is always acceptable with a 5-pocket, and velvet is a hefty enough match for denim (silk satin is questionable). My GR’s are burgundy (and old), but they come in black now (chic). Bonus: This mary jane style is offered in two heel heights (85 and 45), and as a flat, which I also love.

Gianvito Rossi’s 85 Mary Jane slips into the 15” leg opening of Madewell’s 90s Straight Leg without breaking the line.