I’d like to start by saying that the word “perfect” will not be used to describe any of the t-shirts in this letter. A perfect tee is like a perfect human. Doesn’t exist. Many humans are good, reliable, stylish, and special. So, too, are t-shirts. This letter features some of the latter that I like, personally. Knowing what you like – a thicker, ribbed collar band, or a fine, flat one? Heavy, opaque cotton or some slubby sheerness? A boxy body, perhaps? – takes a lot of trying on. I’m happy to do some of the work for you here.
A white t-shirt and jeans. Is there a better look? If you know me, you know I wear it most days of the week. Belted and not. Tucked in and not. I used to buy James Perse’s Vintage Boy tee, exclusively. Then I grew sensitive to neckline constructions and suddenly the doubled-up semi-felled seam felt…tricky. I started seeking heftier cotton. Cleaner lines. Longer short sleeves. Was the popularity of Uniqlo’s U crew neck getting to me? Or were my gut feelings, echoed by so many editors, responsible for the rising popularity of Uniqlo’s clean, sturdy U? I’d bet it’s both. (And yes, I am including the U here today because it’s an important, affordable, and well-made t-shirt that many women, myself included, really like.)
I’m also including a section at the end with reader recommendations. Many of you replied to my request for your favorites – thank you. I was thrilled to see you’re all generally in agreement about the elegance of Leset’s Margo, and the quality of Flore Flore’s tees. I was excited to see that no one brought up Sunspel, which I believe is truly the best. What fun is a Substack if I can’t show you something you don’t already know?
Eight white tees made my list today. I bought close to thirty, a few of which were actually yellow. Er, “vintage.” A white t-shirt is white, friends. And, to keep it focused, I am sticking only to styles with short sleeves today. In no particular order, here are my picks…
No. 1: Proenza Schouler Talia Organic Cotton-Jersey T-shirt
Two things about this t-shirt that I’m surprised I like: 1. The V-neck, and 2. the sportiness. It really does look like a football (as in, soccer) jersey, no? The structured, premium-weight cotton feels substantially tech-y and top-like. It looks good untucked (few long t-shirts do), and supports braless-ness, as well.
Though it’s unclear to me what Proenza Schouler stands for these days – and they have never been famous for t-shirts, per se – they did sell certain tissue-thin striped and tie-dye tees for upwards of $700 back in the 2010s. (Raise your hand if you remember/coveted those.) Anyways, this Talia tee came down the runway for Spring ‘24 and costs less than the brand’s pricey predecessors ($450; I didn’t say it was cheap) – a strong style that’s machine washable and puts a polish on the standard jeans+tee equation.
NO. 2: Sunspel Sea Island Cotton T-Shirt
Sunspel is a British heritage brand that makes my most favorite t-shirts. (British heritage… t-shirts? Yes.) I know, fashion is currently leaning towards thicker, architectural tees – I am, too – but I dare you to try on this one made of sumptuous Caribbean cotton and give it back. Any romantic ideas I have about what a great t-shirt can do for my mood – so free! so breezy! – this t-shirt succeeds at doing it. Authentic. Flexible. Qualities I aspire to maintain as a person and mother. Can a t-shirt make you feel seen? Because in this one, I think I do.
…and NO. 3: Sunspel Boy-Fit T-Shirt
Before I tried the Sea Island tee, I loved this Boy-Fit style. It remains a favorite, with cotton so crisp it wrinkles like paper. I liken it to the finest hotel bedding – lays flat, feels smooth, and folds meticulously. Most days, I prefer a collar band that is, like this one, less than 3/4” wide. I appreciate armhole seams that drop off my shoulders half an inch. I like square sleeves that cover most of my upper arm; a crew that covers my clavicle; a body length that tucks into jeans, generously. If you splurge on one t-shirt from this list, make it the Boy-Fit. (Sunspel is not an affiliate and I do not make a commission from its sale. I really believe it’s a 10/10 tee and worth trying because there’s nothing else like it.)
NO. 4: Uniqlo U Crew Neck T-Shirt with Jacquemus Le De-Nîmes Droit Recycled Jeans.
This t-shirt was like any trend – once I noticed it, it was everywhere: In newsletters, my feed, on friends. It’s so popular, this t-shirt, that a roundup of greats sort of must include one. Those who like thick cotton and clean seams will enjoy the weight and sleeve construction of Uniqlo’s U. It’s fortified. I don’t wear necklaces with it because the collar band is ribbed and wide (almost 1”). Too much of a traffic jam, for my taste. This can be deterring as certain chains and charms help me feel dressed. Usually, a proper bra can make up the difference.
Did you think I’d miss an opportunity to feature an interesting jean style? Allow me to introduce you to the Jacquemus straight-leg, which has a clever J-shaped belt loop to the right of a shiny-gold top button. That hourglass shape that all the girlies are force-altering their vintage Levi’s to do? These jeans have it. Being someone with minimal curves, I’m into it. NOTE: The legs on these are long and the darker wash around the hem will be impossible to preserve if we were to have them shortened. Not a deal-breaker, but something to consider.
NO. 5: Re/Done x Hanes Classic Tee
Many of you recommended I try this t-shirt. I’m glad I did. It’s so low-maintenance, unpretentious and, in a word, cool. Compared to all of the other tees on my list, the Re/Done x Hanes one has a slight boat neck (comparatively, not technically). It’s a little bit see-through, which I like with a black bralette. Tucking is optional with a mid-rise jean, doable with a high-rise, and required for neither. A simple no-brainer for ninety-five dollars.
NO. 6: COS Clean-Cut T-Shirt
The collar band on this COS tee is so thick, it almost ventures into embellishment territory. Though I’m often turned-off by super broad neck bands, it doesn’t bother me here. Why? Because the width is matched on the sleeve and bottom hem. See that? All of the proportions on this t-shirt are so finely tuned. Blink and you’d miss it.
Made of fashion’s beloved premium-weight cotton, it takes washing well and looks best when ironed. (Honestly, they all look best pressed and wrinkle-free.) My friend Jenny Kang, who is a stylist, said: “It’s shrunken enough where I don’t feel sloppy when pairing it with relaxed trousers or wide leg jeans.” Nothing drippy about it.
NO. 7: Flore Flore Car Tee
This letter wouldn’t be complete without a fitted option. Flore Flore is an Amsterdam-based knitwear line designed by Flòrian van Zuilen. What a beautiful t-shirt she’s made – 100% organic cotton with refined seaming that includes a felled seam running down the center back. I can feel the Car was designed by a woman, for women, because it does nothing to hide or re-shape the body and everything to show its natural form. If I were a red girl, I get it in Audrey, too.
NO. 8: Everlane Men’s Premium-Weight Crew
Last but not least: A men’s style that makes no mistake about how high-functioning t-shirts need to be sometimes. Size down (I’m wearing an XS). Tuck it in (it’s built long for a guy’s torso), and roll the sleeves if you want it to feel more delicate. The price ($45, or 2 for $70) is right. The cotton is dry, if you’re into that (I am, especially when wearing stiffer jeans). As for the classic collar band, I, for once, have no notes.
Reader Recommendations:
Just some of the t-shirts you’ve been talking about…
• At least a dozen of you recommend Leset’s best-selling Margo tee ($68). I like the Margo, but if I have to pick one, the Pointelle Slim Fit long sleeve tee ($88) with the matching Boxer pant ($120), is it.
•
recommends the COS men’s brushed cotton tee. “My go to!,” Irene says. $39.• In the more ‘relaxed’ category: Buck Mason’s Easy Crew ($45) was mentioned (click if you like a slub), as was Jungmaven’s chill Ojai style ($46).
• Those who like a cap sleeve, see: AGoldE’s Bryce. $108.
• Hanes Nano-T ($11). “It’s cheap and yet I never see anyone mention it.” - Lilly de Lucia
• My friend Ruthie Samson told me to try this “crispy, lightweight” cotton t-shirt and I basically always listen to Ruthie. $70.
• The ultimate luxury: Frances de Lourdes. Pre-order the Nico now.
• “For oversized, I like Auralee ($90) a lot. Drapes very well.” – Caitlin Cavagnolo
• R.L.T. makes the greatest 90s-throwback baby tee. Pro tip: Size up.
That’s it for today. Thank you for reading and being a part of this newsletter in all the ways one can. Your support, as always, is everything.
Jane
More to read…
Belts for Jeans: Plus, white t-shirts and Nikki Ogunnaike's fashion-month favorites.
Thank you for this lovely post! I must admit: once I bought a Flore Flore t-shirt, I never looked back. Over time I've accumulated a stack of their long, short and sleeveless styles - in all different colours and wear one near every day (with denim!). Each piece is exquisitely made and last forever. Worth every penny. I cherish each one and never stray...
Heck yes to Sunspel. My favorite T-shirts and long-sleeve shirts are Sunspel. I think I’m slowly turning my entire shirt drawer into a Sunspel drawer?! I kinda love that no one really talks about them, makes them feel more mine.