A Guide to Great Fixers for Jeans
Expert tailors and denim repair people, in cities across North America.
“Where should I go to get my jeans altered?”
I am asked this question so frequently, a directory feels essential.
In case it isn’t completely obvious: Jeans aren’t like other pants. A wash is site-specific and authentic stitch work requires major skill and/or special machinery. The easiest hems have to be “original” (aka “Hollywood,” as costume designer Heidi Bivens calls it), or else. Done improperly, even the smallest adjustment or repair can be ruinous.
Kelly Durand of Desert Denim Company calls those who work specifically with denim (and leather) “heavy-duty tailors.” They are artisans unto themselves. At the time of publication, this Guide spotlights sixteen of these. My plan is to add to the Guide – a perennial resource! – if and when I hear of more. I wish I had a denim specialist for every city across America (I tried). Tips are still most welcome.
It’s LA/NY-heavy, I know. So, at the bottom I've linked to 45 of Levi’s’ in-store Tailor Shops across the U.S. and Canada. Little known fact: The tailors in these locations will do alterations on non-Levi’s pieces “as long as it works on the machines,” said Levi’s PR. Though many of the LA/NY folks – Zip Stevenson from Denim Doctors and Shawn Joswick of You Blow ‘Em I Sew ‘Em, for example – will work on jeans remotely, it’s often nice (and sometimes necessary) to see an expert in person. Years down the line, I’m always glad I did.
A few Guide notes: I’ve chosen to focus this on tailors who are committed to working with denim – “specialized weirdos,” as Rain from Indigo Proof affectionately calls her kind – though many traditional tailors can absolutely do a proper hem or waist adjustment on jeans. A friend who works at Ralph Lauren gave me the number for a woman named Giovanna Bellantuona in Phoenix, for example. (“It’s who we use for all RL things,” she said; +1 602-882-7028.) I have had original hems done at Beverly Tailoring in Los Angeles simply because it’s conveniently on the way from my studio to my kids’ school (+1 323-939-4073); they do a good job. If you have a tailor of this kind – general and capable of doing basic denim alterations – leaving it in the comments is a great way to make this Guide even more useful for everyone.
ARIZONA
Desert Denim Company. A reader tipped me off to Kelly Durand’s Desert Denim company, first: “She offers a bespoke fitting experience where she sizes and fully rebuilds the denim to your body. She is a true wizard,” this reader wrote. Once a seamstress for touring bands, Kelly now sells vintage at her by-appointment store. Hems, back center seam adjustments, pocket reinforcements, and machine darning “for butt rips” can be done on personal pairs, too. “With tailoring, I want to help people love their jeans and commit and take care of them for a long time,” she told me. “Creating personal value is always my goal.” 2030 E Broadway Blvd., suite 104, Tucson, AZ 85719. Book a studio appointment here; @desertdenimcompany.
CALIFORNIA
Denim Doctors. Zip Stevenson’s store, a warehouse-y space in a remote-by-retail-standards location near downtown, stocks one of the most extensive selections of vintage in Los Angeles. Ask for his help and he’ll find you the perfect fit in minutes (he did it for me, here). Cutting-edge alterations (he does a crotch insert I haven’t seen anywhere else), and decades of experience set Zip apart. Send him your stuff and he’ll handle it. 1495 Beverly Blvd Suite 1495, Los Angeles, CA 90026. Call or text to make an appointment: +1 424-256-9506; @denimdoctors.
Dr. Blue Jeanns. “Imagine a denim repair shop run by the cowboy in The Big Lebowski,” my friend Jonathan DM’d, referring to Sam Elliot’s character (and the film’s narrator). Established in 1975, Dr. Blue Jeanns (yes, two ‘n’s’, not a typo) is the actual work of Tony Pacheco, who claims it to be the first-ever specialized denim repair shop in L.A. I can’t confirm this, but after walking in there, I also wouldn’t doubt it. Denim snobs swear by Pacheco. “If he was like, ‘I’m the guy who taught Paul Newman how to lasso a steer,’ you’d be like, 'Yup, sounds right.,’” Jonathan wrote. Go see it, you’ll believe it. 4454 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks, CA 91403. Tel: +1 818-986-8047; @drbluejeans_theoriginal.
Denim Revival. The mastermind behind this alterations and repair shop is Anahit Anny Adamyan, better known by her loyal customers as Anny. Although the front-of-store vintage section has changed hands over the years – Stephan Brovko recently brought it back to life – Anny’s been steadily overseeing things in the back since 2006. She’s the expert’s expert. 7934 W 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048; Tel: + 1 323-852-0171; @denimrevivalus.
Loren Cronk. It wouldn’t be right to do a guide to denim specialists and not include Loren Cronk. The former Brooklynite behind BLKSMTH jeans and Loren Denim, he now side-hustles repairs and alterations in L.A.’s Topanga Canyon on the DL. Rumor has it that a Venice storefront / repair workshop is coming in September. Stay tuned. @loren_denim.
The Hidden Rivet. Wyatt Sweeney sells impeccable vintage and does original hems on any pair for a flat rate of $20. “I just really like doing it,” he said. The Hidden Rivet was also featured here. 8366 1/2 w 3rd Street. Los Angeles, CA 90048. Tel: +1 661-310-4330; @the.hiddenrivet.
The Future Past. Garment industry veteran Lindsey Hansen turned her love for vintage and sustainable clothing into a collector’s-level storefront with a by-hand sewing service in the back. You may remember the Made in Japan Levi’s 504s that Lindsey lowered the waist on for me. No? Take a look. Sorcery, I swear. 12 Clement St., San Francisco, CA 94118. Tel: +1 415-305-1814; @_the_future_past_.
MICHIGAN
Chelsea Head Tailoring and Mending. “Trust me, your jeans aren’t dead,” reads a caption on Chelsea’s Instagram. Once a repair technician at Detroit Denim (RIP), Chelsea now uses one of DD’s Consew 207 sewing machines to darns blow-outs and keep jeans – and the spirit of industrious denimwear – alive. 23205 Gratiot Ave, #268, Eastpointe, MI 48021. Tel: 313-364-9969 (call or text). Email: chelsea@chelseahead.com; @chelseaheadtm.
MINNESOTA
Science and Kindness. Satchel Moore, Hannah Hall, and Colleen Harriss are Science and Kindness, a by-appointment and mail-in repair service in St. Paul. “We specialize in creative repairs and customizations that run the gamut, from very discreet to very loud,” said Satchel, who learned handwork at the Waldorf school he attended as a kid. “Our repairs are often celebrated with extra loud embroidery.” 721 Jackson St., St Paul, MN 55130; Email: scienceandkindness@gmail.com; scienceandkindness.net; @scienceandkindness.
Click to see the Before and After on these jeans. 👆
NEW YORK
Brooklyn Denim Co. One of the bigger operations on this list, Brooklyn Denim Co. is a trustworthy staple of the Williamsburg style scene. Hemming is complimentary on any jean purchased at the store and mail-ins are accepted, but – do note – personal pairs must be washed before being worked on. 338 Wythe Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11249. Tel: +1 718-782-2600. Email: informed@brooklyndenimco.com; @brooklyndenimco.
Eva Joan Repair. This month, Eva Joan’s owners Emma Villeneuve and Bjørn Park, are doing refurbishments on distressed jeans to “get them back in action” for a flat rate of $65. Primarily knows as a repair atelier – the two have a team of seven sewers who specialize in everything from mending, to chainstitch embroidery and hand-darning – Eva Joan is both an exercise in sustainability and an expression of individual style. “Usually, one item will go through 3 people’s hands before it is finished,” Emma explained. The group effort is special. 28 Jane Street, New York, New York 10014. Email: questions@evajonerepair; @evajoanrepair.
Shawn Joswick of Joswick Denim. “I don’t really do alterations, but I do hem jeans,” Shawn told me. “I have a very rare and special machine that’s sole purpose is hemming.” A designer in addition to being a bonafide repairman (he used to be the in-house repair guy at Brooklyn Denim Co.), YOU BLOW ‘EM I SEW ‘EM is Shawn’s newer service and mantra. That pair you’ve worn through thick and thin? The ones that have weathered every storm? Send them to Shawn for reinforcement. P.O. Box #2, Southold, NY 11971-1000. Email: joswickny@gmail.com; @joswick_official, @instagramps191, and #youblowemisewem.
Click the post to watch Shawn Joswick make a jacket from scratch. 👆
Merica Lee Jeans. Based in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Merica does what she calls “all things jeanz and in betweenz.” Make, alter, repair... “I do it.” Her signature Indigo Classics style – “a raw, high-waisted classic sailor,” as she described it – is sewn in New York with Japanese denim. The Tina Blues have a straight leg with no front pockets – a second skin-level fit that breaks in exceptionally around the body.
As for fixing, Merica’s hems start at $20, patches start at $15, and special projects are $60 and up (a complete price list is pinned to the top of her Instagram). For international denimheads, Merica’s studio is a must-see. That’s her in the Reel below. I highly recommend clicking to watch. Email: repairs@mericalee.com; @mericalee.
Mid-City Tailoring and Denim Surgeon. They offer original hems with and without a chainstitch, tapering from the inside seam for selvedge (felled, for an additional cost), and – what no one else has mentioned – belly band waist replacements for maternity. 150 West 36th St., 3rd Floor, New York, NY 10018. Tel: +1 646-770-3364. Book an appointment here; @denimsurgeon.
OKLAHOMA
Foxhole. Marlow “Fox” Hole has been working around denim in Los Angeles and New York for more than fifteen years. With an affinity for the funky stuff, she brings a designer’s eye to all her alterations. “I recommend coming in to do fittings in person,” she told me when we spoke earlier this year. Formerly based in Los Angeles, she’s now in Alva, with plans to open a skate shop next door soon. As for repairs: “I don’t use a darning machine. I do single-needle for everything.” L.A. appointments are still held monthly at pop-up locations. 1016 College Avenue, Alva, OK 73717. @thefoxhole.
OREGON
Indigo Proof. You’ll have to wait until fall to get on Indigo Proof’s calendar, I’m afraid. “Spring booking was so busy I am at total capacity through the summer,” the owner, who goes by Rain, told me. “I’m currently planning on opening fall applications in late August.” Set those reminders. Now almost a decade old, Indigo Proof is one of the most impressive and sought-after repair services in the world. “I'm continually improving and always learning from myself to ensure the quality is front and center,” Rain said. “I think that passion is what got me here, and it’s what keeps me going year after year.” Email: info@indigoproof.com; @indigo_proof
Levi’s Tailor Shops: United States and Canada
The tailors installed at select Levi’s stores are trained to customize, hem, upcycle, and repair just about any pair of jeans (so long as they’re compatible with the machines). They do not have to be Levi’s jeans. (At least, that’s true in the U.S.) The Tailor Shops are a great resource for those who need a fitting in, say, Florida. (Tailor Shops in Europe are linked here, but the Regent Street location in London told me they only do Levi’s.)
UNITED STATES
ALABAMA: The Summit Birmingham. 220 Summit Blvd., Birmingham, AL 35243
ARIZONA: Scottsdale Fashion Center, 7014 E. Camelback Road., Scottsdale, AZ 85251
CALIFORNIA:
Bay Street. 5641 Bay Street, Emeryville, CA 94608
Standford. 180 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, CA 94304
Century City. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90067
Newport Beach. 347 Newport Center Drive., Newport Beach, CA 92660
Topanga Plaza. 6600 Topanga Canyon Bvld., Canoga Park, CA 91303
Del Amo. 3525 Carson Street, suite 68., Torrance, CA 90503
Market Street. 815 Market St., San Francisco, CA 94103
Citadel. 100 Citadel Drive, Commerce, CA 90040
Fashion Valley. 7007 Friars Road, San Diego, CA 92108
COLORADO: Park Meadows. 8505 Park Meadows Center Drive, Lone Tree, CO 80124
DELAWARE: Christiana Mall. 132 Christiana Mall, Newark, DE 19702
FLORIDA:
Dadeland. 7535 N Kendall Dr., Miami, FL 33156
Disney Springs. 1536 E. Buena Vista Dr., Orlando, FL 32830
Aventura. 19501 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura, FL 33180
St. Johns Town Center. 4751 River City Drive, Jacksonville, FL 32246
GEORGIA: Ponce City Market. 675 Ponce de Leon Ave., NE., Atlanta, GA 30308
ILLINOIS:
Michigan Ave. 600 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago IL, 60611
Oakbrook. 290 Oakbrook Center, Oakbrook, IL 60523
MASSACHUSETTES:
Derby Street Shops. 94 Derby Street, Hingham, MA o2043
Market Street at Lynnfield. 710 Market Street, Lynnfield, MA 01940
NEW JERSEY: American Dream. 1 American Dream Way, Suite 4118, East Rutherford, NJ 07073
NEVADA: Forum Shops. 3500 Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, NV 89109
NEW YORK:
Hudson Yard. 20 Hudson Yards, New York, NY 10001
Soho. 495 Broadway, New York, NY 10012
Williamsburg. 120 N. 4th Street, Brooklyn, NY 11249
Times Square. 1535 Broadway, New York, NY 10036
The Westchester. 125 Westchester Ave., White Plains, NY 10601
OHIO: Easton Town Center. 3980 Easton Station, Columbus, OH 43219
OREGON: Portland. 2307 NW Westover Road, Portland, OR 97210
PENNSYLVANIA: Ross Park Mall. 1000 Ross Park Mall Dr., Pittsburgh, PA 15237
TEXAS:
Domain. 11401 Century Oaks Terrance, suite 105, Austin, TX 78758
The Galleria Houston. 5085 Westheimer Road, Houston, TX 77056
Legacy West. 7701 Windrose Avenue, Plano, TX 75024
Northpark Center. 8687 N Central Expressway, Dallas, TX 75225
VIRGINIA: Pentagon City. 1100 S Hayes St., Arlington, VA 22202
WASHINGTON:
University Village. 2614 NE University Village St., Seattle, WA 98105
Bellevue Square. 163 Bellevue Square, Bellevue, WA 98004
CANADA
ALBERTA:
West Edmonton. 8882 170 Street NW., Edmonton, AB T5T 4M2
Market Mall. 3625 Shaganappi Trail NW., Calgary AB T3A OE2
BRITISH COLUMBIA: Park Royal. 754 Main Street, West Vancouver, BC V7T 0A5
QUEBEC: Montreal Eaton Centre. 705 Saint-Catherine St. W., Montreal, QC H3B 4G5
ONTARIO:
Hudson's Bay Vancouver. 176 Yonge Street, Toronto, ON M5C 2L7
Toronto Eaton Center. 220 Yonge Street, Toronto, ON M5B 2H1
Thank you for reading and keeping me busy with all your jean needs. I love what I do and welcome useful feedback and suggestions. Leave your trusty tailors in the comments, please, if you feel inclined. Let’s make this the most comprehensive place on the internet to find great fixers. Denim forever.
Jane
More to Read:
Year One Jeans: Good advice for starting a Substack (or anything from scratch).
The tailors at Parc West Valet Dry Cleaning in NYC (57th just east of 9th) have been altering my jeans for longer than I should share. They have never screwed up an original hem, have patched my jeans that I refuse to give up (some multiple times) and have done more complicated alterations like taking in a waistband.
They’ll also tell you if they can’t match something or think the alteration will not lay right, etc.
This is so informative and delightful! Anyone have a recommendation in Boston?