Other People's Jeans
I'm envious.
Let’s talk quickly about how we wash our jeans (yes, I wash mine. Regularly-ish.) My technique: The tiniest bit of Tide directly into the machine’s barrel (I don't know why, but putting it with the jeans and not in the detergent tray makes me feel like I have more control?). Cold water. Air dry.
Levi’s ground-breaking Launderette video starring singer-songwriter Nick Kamen debuted on Boxing Day in the UK in 1985.
When I bought my vintage 501 redlines from Shop Altelier while reporting Vintage Jeans, Parts I & II, owner Patrick Watkins told me he was sending them unwashed because they had a dusty, coppery-green patina he wanted me to see. Pretty (!), but I told him I’d wash them, anyways. We exchanged methods. His? “Similar to how you do it, but with OxiClean and air dry (machine dry cold if I want it soft).” Patrick also recommended Puracy’s Free & Clear Stain Remover. “It works wonders and I buy it on Amazon,” he said. “I use it to spot treat and leave it on for 24 hours if there’s heavy staining.” Very good to know.
In last week’s letter, I reported that Zip Stevenson of the L.A. vintage and repairs shop Denim Doctors helped me find a pair of jeans in exactly 6 minutes and 33 seconds. True story, and since many of you have requested to see these jeans, well, here they are: Made in U.S.A. Levi’s non-selvedge 501s. The care tag, dated November 1988, lists sewing facility 552, which matches the number stamped on the back of the top button. (Vintage Jeans, Part II has more about button post numbers, if you’re interested.) I love that they’re so nicely faded from hip to knee, right where the weathering should be. Whoever wore them before me was probably 5’4”, too.
It took me a long time to feel comfortable wearing jeans that look so… Dad. (We’ve all been trained to want styles that dance around the body to minimize or enhance certain parts and a relaxed 501 like this one doesn’t do any of that.) With a sneaker, it’s all efficiency, which is why I like wearing a more whimsical sweater on top. See the Footnote1 for this sneaker/jean relationship. Full disclosure: I did not need a new pair of vintage Levi’s, but I can’t walk away from an 80s 501 that feels this good. Thank you, Zip.
For today’s letter, I invited two women I know to write about excellent jeans that, frankly, I can’t wear – Apiece Apart’s Meridian and Nili Lotan’s Anna. Sigh. I love these styles… on them. (On me, the Meridian is overwhelming and the Anna is too flared.) To all the taller women who love a high waist or Jane Birkin-y bell, these are for you…
Apiece Apart Meridian Jean by Angela Cravens
As a lifelong jeans girl, I’ve had an unwavering dedication to specific pairs at certain times in my life. When I was in high school in the 90s, it was a pair of Cowboy Cut Wranglers that I got at a store run by a very grumpy and handsome cowboy in East San Diego whose own Wranglers fit his narrow hips like a dream. The breaking-in process took months but then they fit beautifully, the true-blue indigo eventually fading after years of daily wear.
When I moved to New York in 2003, all of the Downtown girls wore incredibly low-slung denim that released into a kick at the hem, long enough to graze the streets of SoHo, the pointed toe of a vintage pump peeking out beneath. I spent that first, bitterly cold winter waitressing. After one particularly busy night, I found myself flush with cash, which I immediately took uptown to the Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street. I went straight for a pair of Paper, Denim and Cloth bootcut flares, soft and a bit stretchy, that I wore nearly every day after that.
I had been telling myself I need no new jeans ever when this pair from Apiece Apart found me, somehow capturing the balance of unfussy and polish that I desire now that I’ve returned to my beachy hometown. It’s a place where I’ve stripped away a lot of the noise. I’m a mom of two and I’ve made my work life fluid enough to allow regular midday ocean swims. Relaxed and beautifully tailored, I can easily sweep these jeans over saltwater-damp skin as I do a quick surfer-swap on the side of the road. They have a unique stitching along the sides that elevates the silhouette. A nice high-low mix with a bit of dimension. Just the thing to wear day after day.
Angela Cravens is a writer and editor. Her current project is a novel about ’00s music culture. She lives in San Diego with her kids, Indira and Bjorn.
Nili Lotan Anna Jean by Jennifer Alfano
Except for summer, I wear jeans at least 75% of the time I am dressed; they are integral to my wardrobe. In fact, the older I get, the more often I wear jeans. It’s not an attempt to look younger, but I do find that the effortless attitude that comes from wearing a pair of jeans is something I am drawn to. Looking fussy feels dated to me, even more so as you get older. I have started investing more in my denim and am a fan of Nili Lotan, especially this Anna pair. Having been an editor, I have a lot of visual references that I draw inspiration from and these remind me of Lee Radziwill on the beach in Montauk, or something that Jane Birkin would have worn. They are very 70s – the flared leg, the flat-front trouser style pockets.
For day, I pair them with a button-down shirt or Frances de Lourdes tee, a blazer or crewneck sweater and sneakers or boots; at night, I switch to a blouse and perhaps a small heel and add a belt for more polish. It’s funny because I had to convince myself to spend this much money on a pair of jeans, even though I will happily indulge in other (much pricier) designer items. Now I wear them several times a week; they are an outfit anchor. Because I’m constantly working towards a wardrobe of fewer, better things, these have been a worthwhile purchase. Plus, I feel a bit like I’m channeling some of my style icons when I put them on, even if it’s only in my head!
Jennifer Alfano is a jewelry designer and the editor and founder of The Flair Index, a popular style site. She lives in Westchester, NY with her husband, dog Enzo, and occasionally her two twenty-something daughters, whom she sometimes swaps jeans with.
It’s getting long, so I’ll make this short: Thank you for supporting my work by liking, commenting, shopping, sharing, and subscribing at any level. Your support is everything.
Jane
More to Read…
👖 Belts for Jeans: Plus, white t-shirts and Nikki Ogunnaike's fashion-month favorites.
👖 Two New Jeans*: *and a Footnote
👖 Moms’ Jeans: Not to be confused with mom jeans.
Footnote. I wasn’t much of a running-shoe person until I had kids and, in my opinion, they’re never an exciting purchase. But these Nikes have served me well. First, with the wide-leg Esprit pair in last week’s letter. (Thanks to the leaner, longer toe they can stand a significant leg opening without getting swallowed.) Now, with the 501s I bought from Zip, the Nikes meet a significantly narrower and shorter hem with equal grace (not all tongues do well with a hem like this). I like wearing ribbed socks with heavier running shoes – mine are from Aerie (3 for under $20). Too basic? Maybe, but I’m comfortable and there are bigger things than being basic to worry about right now. I like the reverse black with the white swoosh, too.
Wow Paper, Denim and Cloth is a throwback! I remember coveting those jeans (but I couldn’t spring for the high price -- I was a bb)
Any recs for vintage denim dealers in nyc? I went to the vintage twin years ago but I am now interested in a new pair! Would love suggestions if you have any.